Truffles of Istria: a food lover's guide

The damp oak forests of inland Istria hide one of Europe's great delicacies — truffles, dug up by trained dogs and shaved over fresh pasta within hours. If you're anywhere near Pula in autumn, this is the food experience to plan a day around.

White vs black

The prize is the white truffle, in season roughly September to January, intensely aromatic and eye-wateringly expensive. The black truffle is milder, cheaper and found for much of the year, so you can taste truffle whatever month you visit.

Where to go

The heart of it is the Motovun forest and the village of Livade on the Mirna river. The hilltop towns of Motovun, Grožnjan and Buzet are the bases — Buzet even throws a truffle festival in autumn with a giant truffle omelette.

How to eat it

Order it shaved over fuži (hand-rolled Istrian pasta) or scrambled eggs — simple dishes that let the aroma do the work. Pair it with a glass of Istrian Malvazija. Many farms and restaurants also sell truffle oil, cheese and paste to take home.

Combine it with a day in Pula or the museums of Pula.