Vis: the once-forbidden island, Croatia's most coveted table

The furthest of the main islands, the clearest water, and the most itself. Vis spent four decades as a secret — closed to foreigners by Yugoslav military decree while the rest of Dalmatia built hotels. That enforced isolation turned out to be a gift: when the island opened in 1989, what emerged had no mass tourism, no concrete sprawl — just vineyards, fishing villages and an almost archaeological silence.

Getting to Vis

All three operators serve Vis, despite it being the farthest inhabited island on this route. The Jadrolinija car ferry from Split to Vis Town takes about 2 h 30 and runs several times daily in summer; the Krilo high-speed catamaran cuts that to roughly 1 h 20. TP Line also runs a catamaran via Komiža. There's no airport — access is by sea only.

The author's tip. The overnight car ferry from Split is a quiet pleasure — come on deck just before dawn and watch Vis materialise from the dark. If you want a scooter or car on the island, take the car ferry: rental at the catamaran ports is limited and fills fast in July–August. Book early — Vis has fewer berths than Hvar or Brač.

Getting around

A modest bus links the island's two settlements, Vis Town and Komiža, about 10 km apart (~20 minutes), several times a day in summer. For the hidden coves and hilltop vineyards, a scooter or car is the way.

Where to go

Vis Town wraps an elegant bay with Venetian and Austrian layers; Komiža, over the hill, is the rawer fishing port and the launch point for the Blue Cave on the islet of Biševo, about 20 minutes away, where late-morning light turns the water electric blue. Add the wartime tunnels and the remote beaches of Stiniva and Srebrna.

What to eat & buy

Vis is famous for two things on the plate: superb seafood from a genuine fishing fleet, and indigenous wine — the white Vugava and the island's Plavac reds. Try the komiška pogača, a flatbread of salted fish and onion. Take home a bottle of Vugava you won't easily find elsewhere.

Where to stay

Vis has no big resorts — apartments and small guesthouses in Vis Town and Komiža are the norm, which is the point. Book ahead in peak season. Many island hoppers base in Split and give Vis at least one overnight rather than a rushed day trip.

Best time to visit

June and September are ideal — warm sea, open konobas, and the island still unhurried. See the full island hopping from Split guide, or carry on to Korčula.