Mljet: saltwater lakes, an island monastery, and the greenest island in the Adriatic

Two lakes, one monastery, and the greenest island in the Adriatic. Mljet is the most forested island in the sea: two connected saltwater lakes open to the tide, a 12th-century monastery on an islet in the larger one, and — by persistent local claim — the island where Calypso held Odysseus for seven years. Mljet doesn't compete with the rest of Dalmatia; it exists at a different register entirely.

Getting to Mljet

Mljet is served by Jadrolinija (car ferry) and Krilo (catamaran), and it sits closer to Dubrovnik than to Split. From Dubrovnik it's about 1 h 45 to Sobra by car ferry, or a similar time by seasonal catamaran to Polače. From Split, the Krilo catamaran reaches Polače in roughly 4 h 30 via Hvar and Korčula. There's no airport.

Polače vs Sobra. Arrive at Polače if you can — it's inside the national park, a 10-minute walk from the lakes, with most of the accommodation and restaurants. Sobra takes the car ferries but the town itself offers little, and you'll need transport to the park. On foot, aim for the Polače catamaran.

Getting around

A single road runs 37 km from Polače in the west to Saplunara in the east, but inside Mljet National Park the best transport is a bicycle — the flat lakeside paths are made for it. A small boat ferries visitors from the larger lake to the monastery islet.

Where to go

The heart of the island is Mljet National Park in the west: the two saltwater lakes (Veliko and Malo Jezero), the islet of St Mary with its Benedictine monastery, and shaded forest paths for walking and swimming. At the eastern end, the sandy bays of Saplunara are among the best beaches in Croatia.

What to eat & buy

Mljet's tables lean on goat and lamb, island honey, wine and olive oil, and whatever the day's boats bring in. Eat near the lakes in Pomena or Polače, and take home a jar of the island honey.

Where to stay

Polače and nearby Pomena put you on the park's doorstep; Saplunara suits a beach-focused stay. Because Mljet is closest to Dubrovnik, many travellers visit it from there — pair it with our Dubrovnik stays or fold it into a longer island route from Split.

Best time to visit

May–June and September: warm water, green forest, and the park quiet enough to hear it. See the full island hopping from Split guide, or finish with Lastovo.